Ao Dai – Vietnam’s National Dress

08/07/2022 |

Vietnam’s national dress, the Ao dai is one of the country’s most striking symbols of beauty. Over hundreds of years, the Ao dai has evolved alongside Vietnam, going from regal to practical, humble to high fashion, and back again. The Vietnamese Ao dai is appreciated by the young and old alike, and its elegant lines flatter both men and women.

The story of Ao dai

The story of the Ao dai starts in 1744, when Vietnam was divided into two territories, the Inner Land and Outer Land, To distinguish his people, Lord Nguyen Phuc Khoat of Inner Land asked his subjects to wear a front-buttoned gown with trousers. This five-part dress (Ao ngu than) was the inspiration for the modern Ao dai. Royals and elites made their dresses from the finest silk, with intricate details and vibrant colours to represent rankings in court. 

In the 1930s, the dress was simplified into two parts by Vietnamese artist Le Mur Nguyen Cat Tuong. The front flap was extended to reach the ankle, and the form became more fitted. As with many ‘westernized’ ideas, the style was only reluctantly received at first. However, after Le Mur designed an Ao dai collection for Queen Nam Phuong, wife of Vietnam’s last Emperor ò Vietnam Bao Dai, urban women started to embrace and popularize the more contemporary style. After the establishment of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh penned an essay in 1947 noting that the Ao dai was not fit for the fields or the factory, asking Vietnamese to adapt their attire to be more efficient for work. As a result, the Ao dai became a dress saved for professional appearances and special occasions. Nowadays, across the country, female highschool students are required to wear the dress for at least one day a week. Girls in white Ao dai riding their bicycles to school have inspired many Vietnamese songs, poems, and paintings. The Ao dai is also worn by ladies of all ages whenever it’s time to make a good impression.

Modern styles of Ao dai

Boat neck, cropped length, short sleeves–modern designers are not afraid to explore creative routes when it comes to Ao dai. Some of these new takes on the traditional dress have made it more practical, which means they can be worn in less formal settings. Knee-length styles are convenient for wearing on motorcycles and bicycles, and you’ll see a variety of more casual collars worn on summer days, including scoop neck and boat neck styles.

When to wear Ao dai

Vietnamese women love wearing Ao dai for photo shoots in beautiful settings. During Tết (Lunar New Year) you’ll see the dress in all its glory as women wear it to visit friends and family, and pay tribute at temples and shrines. A wedding is the perfect time to wear one’s best Ao dai. In Vietnam, the bride and groom and the wedding entourage will wear elaborate Ao dai at the traditional ceremony, then guests will show up for the reception in simpler but equally colourful designs.

The meaning of the color of the Ao dai

When choosing an Ao dai, each colour has meaning. In Imperial times, gold was a royal colour and reserved for kings and queens. Red Ao dai are worn during Tết for luck and prosperity. Brides and grooms may also wear red on their wedding day, so it’s a good idea to come in a different colour if you’re a guest. White symbolizes purity and innocence, as seen in the white dresses of highschool students, and black is most often worn at funerals. Vietnamese women also choose Ao dai colours based on their element (metal, wood, water, fire, or earth) taken from their year of birth.